To tap her memory, Jesse Meadows speaks to Madame Nhung, the longest-running staff member in Vietnam’s most classic, colonial-era hotel. Photos by Julie Vola

The gateway to West Lake, from a certain John McCain through to pagodasand street food, Thanh Nien and Truc Bach Lake next door have a fascinating past. Words by Edward Dalton. Photos by Julie Vola

Bui Vien in Ho Chi Minh City was not always the travellers' hangout it is today. Zoe Osborne speaks to three people who remember the road as it once was. Photos by Bao Zoan

Vietnam is abundant with history — 4,000 years’ worth. Yet, with the transformation of this country from sleepy, upstart backwater to modern middle-income economy, much of the recent past is being lost. As Thomas Jefferson once said: “I like the dreams of the future better than the history of the past.” He wasn’t referring to Vietnam, but he might well have been.

In the face of Brexit, you may think that British ambassadors around the world will be biting their nails and grinding their teeth. Far from it. As UK Ambassador to Vietnam Giles Lever explains, it’s business as normal. Photos by Julie Vola

Stay in a five-star or boutique hotel, and you got one type of experience. Stay in a homestay and you get something altogether quite different. Words and photos by Jesse Meadows

The development in Saigon is not just eating up green land and turning it into high-rises, it’s also annihilating the city’s history. Words by Matthew Cowan. Photos by Bao Zoan

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