Chao Trai

November is when Hanoi says goodbye to autumn and welcomes winter. The pleasant mild and cool weather is said to tempt people to eat — just thinking of hot rice porridge or steaming rice dumplings warms you up while riding back from work. Not surprisingly, at this time of year, mid-afternoon snacks are popular with Hanoians.

Banh My Sot Van

As the street corners in Hanoi start feeling the onset of autumn, things start to get a little romantic. Streets are filled with yellow leaves, trees quiver in the light breeze and the air is perfumed with that special aroma of milky flower.

Bun Dau Mam Tom

Huyen Tran investigates the irresistible dish that smells as bad as it tastes good. Photos by Francis Roux

Soup for the Summer

The best bun dish to eat in the Hanoi heat is bun moc, says Huyen Tran. Photos by Francis Roux

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