Champa, the empire formerly covering Central Vietnam, is long gone. But the Cham people aren’t. In search of Cham cuisine, Ed Weinberg heads to a village outside of Phan Rang and samples 12 courses of the real thing

There are many places to eat banh cuon in the capital. But one eatery does this dish just that little bit differently to make it stand out from the crowd. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by David Harris

A popular pairing with Hanoi’s favourite beverage, bia hoi, nem phung is as simple as it is delicious. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by David Harris

While walking along Hang Dao on our way to exploring the city, my Scottish friend — who had been in Hanoi for only a few weeks — was overcome with curiosity when she saw a few peddlers selling small rice balls in their baskets.

Pho Tau Bay

You can’t get good pho in Saigon. It’s a statement oft heard and oft cited — particularly by northerners, who are used to eating a particularly Hanoian version of this dish. 

Banh My Thit Xien Nuong

When I was growing up, my grandmother told me, “Bread is the dish of Western people, brought to Vietnam by the French. It is only for urban or upper class people. It is expensive and not for the working class like us…”

 

Today, this sounds far-fetched. For many years, bread or banh my (banh mi in the south), has been one of Vietnam’s street food staples.

Ngan Nuong

The kindergarten courtyard is packed tonight, but there’s not a child in sight. Locals slurp noodles at plastic tables, surrounded by pastel murals in loopy, childish handwriting.

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